An optimal method for quantifying the facial sebum level and characterizing facial sebum features

Author:

Liu Yujie1,Jiang Wencai1234ORCID,Tang Yulong1ORCID,Zhang Qing1,Zhen Yaxian5,Wang Xuemin2,Liu Wei6,Wang Jiucun178,Ma Yanyun178,Tan Yimei234

Affiliation:

1. State Key Laboratory of Genetic Engineering School of Life Science and Human Phenome Institute Zhangjiang Fudan International Innovation Center Fudan University Shanghai China

2. Department of Skin and Cosmetic Research Shanghai Skin Disease Hospital School of Medicine Tongji University Shanghai China

3. Professional Technical Service Platform for Clinical Evaluation of Skin Health Related Products Shanghai Science and Technology Commission (21DZ2294500) Shanghai China

4. NMPA Key Laboratory for Monitoring and Evaluation of Cosmetics Shanghai China

5. L'Oreal Research and Innovation Shanghai China

6. Department of Dermatology Air Force Medical Center Beijing China

7. Research Unit of Dissecting the Population Genetics and Developing New Technologies for Treatment and Prevention of Skin Phenotypes and Dermatological Diseases (2019RU058) Chinese Academy of Medical Sciences Shanghai China

8. Institute for Six‐sector Economy Fudan University Shanghai China

Abstract

AbstractBackgroundEvidence suggests that sebum content is important in skin disorders such as acne. However, sebum levels change depending on the external environment, and quantifying skin sebum levels is challenging. Here, we propose an optimal method for quantifying the facial sebum level.Materials and methodsFour hundred and sixty participants (160 males and 300 females) aged 20–40 were enrolled in this study. A Sebumeter SM 810 was used to measure the sebum level at five facial locations: the forehead, the chin, the left cheek, the right cheek, and the nose. The participants were divided into two groups; one group underwent a one‐time measurement (n = 390, male: female = 120: 270), and the other underwent three consecutive measurements (n = 70, male: female = 40: 30). The casual sebum level (CSL) was measured in all patients after a 30‐min acclimatization; subsequently, the sebum removal process was conducted, followed by a resting period of 1 h to determine the sebum excretion rate (SER). Spearman's correlation analysis and the Wilcoxon signed‐rank test were used to compare the sebum level consistency and differences between the groups.ResultsAlthough three consecutive measurements better reflected the sebum content, the one‐time measurement also represented the relative sebum level. One hour after sebum removal, the sebum level recovered to 70%–90%; thus, this method was applicable for use in SER quantification. Of the five testing points, the sebum content was highest in the nose and lowest in the cheeks (both left and right). In addition, the cheeks were the most stable sites in terms of testing points, testing times, and CSL/SER values. A one‐time measurement of the CSL could represent the SER 1 h after the sebum removal. In our cohort, the sebum level of males with oily skin was decreased at age 32–35, and that of males with non‐oily skin increased at 28–35. The opposite trend was observed in female participants.ConclusionSebum measurement methods were assessed, including testing times, indices (interval of time) and sites in a conditioned external environment. A one‐time measurement of the CSL 1 h after sebum removal was sufficient to determine the sebum level and SER, and the cheeks are recommended as the testing site. Sex and skin type differences were observed in sebum level changes with age.

Publisher

Wiley

Subject

Dermatology

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