Multi‐omics analysis to evaluate the effects of solar exposure and a broad‐spectrum SPF50+ sunscreen on markers of skin barrier function in a skin ecosystem model

Author:

Jacques Carine1ORCID,Jamin Emilien L.23,Noustens Anais1,Lauze Christophe1,Jouanin Isabelle23,Doat Gautier4,Debrauwer Laurent23,Bessou‐Touya Sandrine1,Stockfleth Eggert5,Duplan Hélène1

Affiliation:

1. Pierre Fabre Dermo‐Cosmétique et Personal Care Centre R&D Pierre Fabre Toulouse France

2. Toxalim (Research Centre in Food Toxicology) Université de Toulouse, INRAE, ENVT, INP‐Purpan, UPS Toulouse France

3. MetaboHUB‐MetaToul National Infrastructure of Metabolomics and Fluxomics Toulouse France

4. Laboratoires Eau thermale Avène, Cauquillous Lavaur France

5. Department of Dermatology, Venerology and Allergology, St. Josef Hospital Ruhr‐University Bochum Bochum Germany

Abstract

AbstractSun exposure induces major skin alterations, but its effects on skin metabolites and lipids remain largely unknown. Using an original reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model colonized with human microbiota and supplemented with human sebum, we previously showed that a single dose of simulated solar radiation (SSR) significantly impacted the skin metabolome and microbiota. In this article, we further analyzed SSR‐induced changes on skin metabolites and lipids in the same RHE model. Among the significantly altered metabolites (log2‐fold changes with p ≤ 0.05), we found several natural moisturizing factors (NMFs): amino acids, lactate, glycerol, urocanic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and derivatives. Analyses of the stratum corneum lipids also showed that SSR induced lower levels of free fatty acids and higher levels of ceramides, cholesterols and its derivatives. An imbalance in NMFs and ceramides combined to an increase of proinflammatory lipids may participate in skin permeability barrier impairment, dehydration and inflammatory reaction to the sun. Our skin model also allowed the evaluation of an innovative ultraviolet/blue light (UV/BL) broad‐spectrum sunscreen with a high sun protection factor (SPF50+). We found that using this sunscreen prior to SSR exposure could in part prevent SSR‐induced alterations in NMFs and lipids in the skin ecosystem RHE model.

Publisher

Wiley

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