MASS TRANSPORT IN GRAVITY WAVES ON A SLOPING BOTTOM

Author:

Bijker E.W.,Kalkwijk J.P. Th.,Pieters T.

Abstract

In the present investigation the influence of bottom slope on mass transport by progressive waves was investigated, both theoretically and experimentally. Theoretical considerations based on linear wave theory show the greatest influence of the slope on the bottom drift velocities for relatively long waves and steep slopes. The numerical values, however, remain rather small (influence less than 20%). In addition, the experiments show that the bottom drift velocities are more determined by the local parameters than by the magnitude of the bottom slope m the cases examined. Considering the net bottom velocities, the discrepancy between the horizontal bottom theory (Longuet- Higgms) and experimental results is considerable. Taking into account the first harmonic of the local wave form and the small slope effect for relatively small depths in horizontal bottom theory does show, however, the same tendency as the experimental results.

Publisher

Coastal Engineering Research Council

Subject

General Earth and Planetary Sciences,General Environmental Science

Cited by 7 articles. 订阅此论文施引文献 订阅此论文施引文献,注册后可以免费订阅5篇论文的施引文献,订阅后可以查看论文全部施引文献

1. A Simplified Experimental Method to Estimate the Transport of Non-Buoyant Plastic Particles Due to Waves by 2D Image Processing;Journal of Marine Science and Engineering;2023-08-16

2. References;Coastal Processes in Tideless Seas;2000-09-11

3. Scour under Submarine Pipelines in Waves in Shoaling Conditions;Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering;1999-01

4. Roller Contributions as Inferred from Inverse Modelling Techniques;Coastal Engineering 1996;1997-08-05

5. ESTIMATION OF CHARACTERISTIC QUANTITIES OF OFFSHORE VORTEX TRAIN;Doboku Gakkai Ronbunshu;1990-05-20

同舟云学术

1.学者识别学者识别

2.学术分析学术分析

3.人才评估人才评估

"同舟云学术"是以全球学者为主线,采集、加工和组织学术论文而形成的新型学术文献查询和分析系统,可以对全球学者进行文献检索和人才价值评估。用户可以通过关注某些学科领域的顶尖人物而持续追踪该领域的学科进展和研究前沿。经过近期的数据扩容,当前同舟云学术共收录了国内外主流学术期刊6万余种,收集的期刊论文及会议论文总量共计约1.5亿篇,并以每天添加12000余篇中外论文的速度递增。我们也可以为用户提供个性化、定制化的学者数据。欢迎来电咨询!咨询电话:010-8811{复制后删除}0370

www.globalauthorid.com

TOP

Copyright © 2019-2024 北京同舟云网络信息技术有限公司
京公网安备11010802033243号  京ICP备18003416号-3